Meet Teresa Searle - Felted Knitwear with Appliqué
by WorldKnit.com

MPLS (Oct-00) - We recently had the opportunity to talk with European felted knitwear designer Teresa Searle. Teresa is an exceptional artist who uses felted, knitted fabric as her medium. She achieves great complexity and beauty using very basic and simple geometric shapes in endless variations. These include hearts, stars, trees, birds and flowers. Beyond the shapes, it is Teresa's use of color that really draws you into her work. Rich, opulant, vibrant colors...a treasure to behold. Teresa's work is a celebration of uniqueness and beauty created by harmoniously blending art and fashion.

WorldKnit.com: How long have you been felting and can you tell us a little about your formal education including the school and perhaps the teachers and subjects that have had the greatest impact on your work.

Teresa: I have always been interested in felt, right from when I was very young . I spent a lot of time making all sorts of things and often used ready made felt for these projects.

I had a fairly standard education, and went to a comprehensive school in Bristol where I studied for O level and A level exams. My favourite subjects were Art, which I loved, and Biology, which I had a strong interest in also. Unfortunately, my school had very little to do with textile art and most of this type of creative work was done at home. I was encouraged to do this by my parents. My mother is a dressmaker and taught me to knit and sew at a very young age. My dad taught us pottery which was one of the things he taught as a primary school teacher.

Once I had completed my A levels I went to the local college to do a foundation course in art and design where I further pursued many different textile crafts, going on to do a BTEC HND at Derbyshire college of higher education where I specialised in knit. Towards the end of the course we had to put together a final collection of work. I decided to do hats as they were just starting to come back into fashion around that time. My tutor at college suggested that I should felt the knitting, by washing in a long hot wash. I did many experiments with different types of yarn, temperatures etc. Once this had been perfected, I soon realised that it could be cut without fraying or running, making it ideal for applique. Upon leaving college I set up my own workshop producing hats among other things, and have been in business now for 14 years. The range includes Jackets, Hats, Bags and scarves and quite often I make other articles such as tea cosies, cushions etc.

WorldKnit.com: What is your inspiration for your hats, garments, etc.?

Teresa: Inspiration comes from many sources. Originally, while at college I took inspiration from contemporary artists such as Mervyn Charlton and Alan Davies. Later, as I travelled further afield, other influences have crept in. Perhaps the most inspirational thing I have ever seen were the mosaics at Ravenna in Italy. They really are incredibly beautiful using colour, pattern and motifs to amazing effect. Another big influence is Brian Wildsmith who is a Childrens Illustrator, and we had some of his books when we were children. Other Childhood influences were The Narnia Chronicles by CS Lewis. I read these books over and over again and I think they really sparked off my imagination. I love gardens, architecture and modern artists such as Klimt and Dufy, and we often see these things when on holiday in Britain and abroad. American and European folk art is very inspiring particularly quilts and rag rugs. I get inspiration from so many things and constantly search for new ideas. Often I mix several elements together from diverse cultures.

WorldKnit.com: Your work uses such beautiful colors! Do you dye your own fiber? Also, what is your favorite fiber to felt with?

Teresa: I usually use Shetland yarn which I buy from several different suppliers. I like Shetland not because it felts well or is soft (Lambswool is better for both these reasons) but because it comes in such lovely colours, which is what I enjoy most about my work. The Shetland comes ready dyed on the cone. When I was at college I dyed all my own colours up, but know this is no longer practical from several points of view.

WorldKnit.com: Your work combines felted knitting with appliqué and embroidery. Do you hand knit the pieces, machine knit or use recycled knitting?

Teresa: All the knitting is done using a domestic knitting machine with a motor. I no longer do any of the knitting, and I employ a lady to do this for me. It is possible to use recycled knitting such as old felted jumpers, etc. and this is something that I encourage in my workshops.

WorldKnit.com: How do you construct the pieces? (Just give us a basic idea of the work/steps involved in each piece from design and color to construction and the total length of time needed to make a hat or garment)

Teresa: First, I need to think very hard about a design and I spend a lot of time looking at books and drawing in my sketch book. Once an idea begins to formulate, I start doing layout drawings in pencil. Then I decide on colours and can choose from around 60 colours around me in my workshop. Once everything is decided, I cut out the basic garment shapes out of a background colour of felted knitting, then I cut out shapes of the same fabric and pin them on. These are sewn on using a zig-zag stitch on the sewing machine. After this I add other layers gradually building up a design and sewing the pieces down. Embroidery is then added to add detail, using a shiny rayon thread with various machine embroidery techniques. Once the design is complete, I press each piece and make up the garments adding linings and braid around the edges. Normally, a Jacket will take around 40 Hours and a Hat around 4 hours. This doesn't include the time taken to design and prepare patterns and templates.

WorldKnit.com: Do you employ other felting techniques to your work like needle felting?

Teresa: I have not had much experience of making other kinds of felt. I have attended a one-day felt making workshop in Bristol about 10 years ago. Needle felting interests me greatly, but it would mean a trip to Huddersfield and a lot of money in order to do this.

WorldKnit.com: Many fiber artists dream of turning their passion into a business. What advice would you give to aspiring fiber entrepreneurs?

Teresa: I wish that I could have had some sound advice when I began my business, and I wish that I knew then what I know now. The main things that you need are talent and determination to succeed. Also, you need to sacrifice a good salary and most of your spare time as you will need to work extremely hard in order to earn a realistic living. Another thing- believe in yourself and don't feel too bad if you get rejected by a gallery of store. There will probably be many more people that will like your work. Learn from your mistakes and from constructive criticism. I have been doing this a long time and feel I am still learning.

~ End ~

Teresa will be teaching classes at the following locations:

26-27th May 2001: THE BATTERY. A residential course in a wonderful location by the sea! Contact Marilyn Phipps, The Battery Admiralty Walk, Seasalter, Kent CT5 4ET. Tel: 01 227 277994

23-26th July 2001: OXFORD SUMMER SCHOOL. Contact Teresa Searle for details.

Teresa's work will be shown in the following Exhibitions:

1-24th December 2000: TERESA SEARLE AND JO SHEFFIELD. Year of the Artist Brewery Arts, Cirencester.

10-11th November 2000: TERESA SEARLE and HOLLY BELSHER WINTER SALE. Unit 4 New Square Units, 14 King Square, Bristol BS2 8JH. Friday from 5pm - 8pm. Saturday from 11am - 6pm.

10th of February-2nd March 2001: TERESA SEARLE AND NEIL DRURY. Riot of Colour. Verandah, 13 North Parade, Oxford, OX2 6LX.

WorldKnit.com encourages you to contact Teresa if you have any questions regarding her workshops or shows. You can also view her website at http://website.lineone.net/~teresa.searle/index.htm.

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